Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley

Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©

There’s something undeniably thrilling about the spontaneous decision to lace up your hiking boots, grab your backpack, and head out into the unknown. That’s exactly how this adventure began – a simple idea, born from a desire to escape the ordinary and dive headfirst into the beauty and mystery of the great outdoors.

On this particular afternoon, I found myself drawn to the charming town of Matlock in Derbyshire, a place where history and nature intertwine in the most unexpected ways. With the sun dipping low and casting a golden hue over the landscape, I set off on a trail that promised more than just a scenic walk – it whispered of forgotten tales and hidden gems waiting to be discovered.

Into the Enchanted Woods

The path wound its way through lush, green woodlands, the kind that seemed almost enchanted, with the sunlight filtering through a canopy of ancient trees. The air was crisp, carrying the earthy scent of damp leaves and moss. As I walked, the steady crunch of gravel beneath my boots was the only sound, save for the distant call of birds and the occasional rustle of a squirrel darting through the underbrush.

Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©

I had heard whispers of Lumsdale Waterfall before – its beauty, its serenity – but what truly intrigued me was the history that lay buried within the valley itself. You see, Lumsdale Valley isn’t just a place of natural wonder, it’s a place where history has left its mark, etched into the very stones that line its paths.

The Majestic Lumsdale Waterfall

As I ventured deeper into the valley, the sound of rushing water grew louder, guiding me like a beacon. And then, there it was – Lumsdale Waterfall, cascading down with a grace that seemed almost timeless. The sight was nothing short of mesmerizing, the water tumbling over rocks that had been shaped and smoothed by centuries of relentless flow. The surrounding greenery only added to the magic, with ferns and moss clinging to every surface, creating a scene that felt like it had been plucked straight from a storybook.

Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©

But this wasn’t just a place of natural beauty – it was a place steeped in history. Back in the 17th century, Lumsdale Valley was more than just a picturesque landscape. It was a bustling centre of industry, a hive of activity where the forces of nature were harnessed to fuel the engines of progress. The water from Bentley Brook, which feeds the waterfall, was crucial to this operation. It powered a series of mills that once dotted the valley, each one a vital cog in the machinery of the local economy.

The Lumsdale Mills: Echoes of an Industrial Past

As I explored the valley, I was struck by the ruins of the Lumsdale Mills, six structures that remain scattered across the landscape, each in various states of picturesque decay. These mills once played a vital role in the valley’s industrial heyday, and their stories are as compelling as the sight of their crumbling walls.

Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©

At the very top of the valley, I came across the remains of the Bone Mill, one of the oldest structures, dating back to the 17th century. As its name suggests, this mill was primarily used to grind bones, which were essential in the production of pottery and fertilizers. The Bone Mill operated for centuries before being abandoned in the 1920s, leaving behind a haunting reminder of its industrious past.

Further down the path, the Saw Mill caught my attention. Built in the 1850s, this mill once housed a large burr grinding stone imported from France, a testament to the mill’s importance. Originally, several pairs of millstones were located here, each powered by water from the mill’s channels. The Saw Mill didn’t just operate in isolation; its water supply directly powered the mills below, creating an interconnected industrial production system.

Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©

Continuing along the trail, I reached the Paint Mill, believed to be the oldest in the valley, dating back to the early 1600s. This mill initially served as a lead smelting and bleaching mill. Even after centuries, you can still spot the circular stone trough behind the mill, once used for bleaching yarn—a silent witness to the valley’s textile history.

The next structure I encountered was the Grinding Mill, built in the 1770s beside the waterfall itself. The mill’s wheel pit, now overgrown but still impressive, hints at the mill’s original purpose—likely as a corn mill before being repurposed for grinding red lead. Water would have been fed onto the wheel through a cast iron pipe, powering the mill’s operations.

Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©

The Upper Bleach Mill, most likely involved in the final stages of bleaching, handled drying, finishing, and packing. Although much of the machinery has been lost to time, particularly during WWII when metal parts were salvaged, the mill’s structure still tells the story of its past. The position of the original boiler, used to heat the drying room, remains visible—a ghostly trace of the mill’s once-vital operations.

Preserving History: The Arkwright Society & Lumsdale Falls

As I wandered through these ruins, I couldn’t help but feel a deep respect for the last private owner of this site, who, despite lucrative offers for the stone, chose to preserve these buildings in their ruined state. This decision was made not only as a tribute to their heritage but also to maintain a habitat for the wildlife that has since reclaimed the valley.

Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©

Today, the Lumsdale Valley is owned by the Arkwright Society, a charity devoted to rescuing and preserving industrial heritage buildings. The society, along with a dedicated committee of Lumsdale residents, manages the site, maintaining the mills in their current state of decay. This delicate balance allows the public to explore the area while safeguarding the important woodland and wetland habitats that have flourished here.

Reflections at Twilight

With the sun beginning its descent behind the hills, casting long shadows across the valley, I found a quiet spot to sit and take it all in. The waterfall, the ruins, the history—all of it seemed to merge into one, creating an experience that was both humbling and awe-inspiring. It’s moments like these, surrounded by the whispers of the past and the beauty of the present, that remind me why I love to explore. There’s always something new to discover, even in places where time seems to stand still.

Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©

As I made my way back along the trail, the light fading to a soft twilight, I couldn’t shake the feeling that I had just uncovered a secret—a piece of history hidden in plain sight, waiting for those willing to seek it out. Lumsdale Valley had offered me more than just a beautiful hike; it had given me a glimpse into a world long gone, yet still very much alive in the heart of this quiet corner of Derbyshire.

Final Thoughts

So, if you ever find yourself craving adventure, I highly recommend a trip to Matlock and the Lumsdale Valley. It’s a journey that promises not just stunning views and peaceful solitude, but also a deep connection to the past—a reminder that every place has a story, just waiting to be told.
Until the next adventure, stay curious and keep exploring.

Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©
Chasing History and Waterfalls: An Afternoon Hike to Lumsdale Valley. Papa Bear Photography. All rights reserved ©

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